By R. S. Johnson

For over 100 years, the idea of water waves has been a resource of exciting and sometimes tricky mathematical difficulties. almost each classical mathematical strategy appears to be like someplace inside of its confines. starting with the creation of the fitting equations of fluid mechanics, the outlet chapters of this article think about the classical difficulties in linear and nonlinear water-wave idea. This units the level for a research of extra smooth features, difficulties that supply upward push to soliton-type equations. The ebook closes with an advent to the consequences of viscosity. the entire mathematical advancements are provided within the most simple demeanour, with labored examples and straightforward instances conscientiously defined. routines, extra analyzing, and historic notes on a number of the vital characters within the box around off the ebook and make this a great textual content for a starting graduate direction on water waves.

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**Additional resources for A Modern Introduction to the Mathematical Theory of Water Waves**

**Sample text**

The insertion of a discontinuity (or jump) to make the solution singlevalued. 2). 5, is reminiscent of a wave breaking on a beach; indeed, this type of solution of a nonlinear equation is often called a breaking wave. However, this similarity is altogether superficial; waves that approach a beach, and then break, are described by a much more involved theory (which essentially requires the full water-wave equations). 8. 2 Asymptotic expansions Finally, we introduce the ideas that form the basis for handling the equations and problems that we encounter in water-wave theory, at least in the initial stages of much of the work.

5 JA^ bottom condition For an inviscid fluid, the bottom constitutes - like the free surface - a boundary which is defined as a surface moving with the fluid. 35) where b(x±, i) will be prescribed in our problems. However, it should be mentioned that there are classes of problem (which we shall not discuss) where b is not known a priori; this situation can arise in the study of sediment movement, for example. 35) becomes w = (u±'V±)b on z = b. 4 An integrated mass conservation condition Now that we have written down the general conditions that describe the kinematics of the motion at both the free surface and the bottom, we show how they can be combined with the equation of mass conservation.

For most of the discussions in this text, we shall be concerned with gravity waves propagating on the surface of an inviscid fluid. ) The arguments that suggest that such simplifying assumptions lead to problems worthy of consideration will be rehearsed later. However, we take this opportunity to emphasise that the main thrust of our work will be towards an understanding of the equations (and boundary conditions), and what they imply for wave propagation. It is not our purpose to provide an engineering or physical appraisal of the usefulness of these theories as they apply to the many and varied types of water waves that are encountered in nature.